Cruising Beachbum: Antarctica & South Georgia: the most southerly reaches.

Before leaving south Georgia, we also visited Stromness, a former whaling station and Grytviken Church which was brought from Norway and assembled in South Georgia in 1913.

The Church was consecrated on Christmas day that year and the two Church bells, cast in Tønsberg, were first rung at midnight on Christmas Eve.

The building was planned by Captain C. A. Larsen who set up the whaling station in 1904.

We were fortunate not only in the timing of visiting Grytviken on Christmas day, but by also having on board Canon Ian Ainsworth Smith who conducted a brief but very moving service for the adventurers on board.
The visit wouldn't have been complete, had we not also visited the Cemetery where many whalers and sealers were buried. The most famous of the approximately 200 graves, is that of Sir Ernest Shackleton, who died in 1922.

The most recent burial was that of an Argentinian submariner, who was buried during the Argentine / British conflict in 1982

The only way ashore is by Zodiac

Stromness Whaling Station

Grytviken Church

Grytviken Church Interior

A funeral proceeding to the church

The grave of Sir Ernest Shackleton

Many considerations must be taken into account before a ship can successfully complete a journey of this kind, fuel and water being the two most important.
Having crossed the South Atlantic and Scotia Sea, to visit South Georgia, we would now need to take on supplies of both fuel and water, to sustain our passage to Antarctica.
We therefore headed in a westerly direction to the Falkland Islands, where , weather permitting, we would be able to dock at Stanley and take on sufficient supplies for our journey south.

Following the turbulent crossing to South Georgia, it came as a pleasant surprise to be able to enjoy a relatively smooth return and the good weather greeted us at Stanley as we docked alongside.
Whilst the ship was re-stocked, it gave us an opportunity to explore the small but fascinating town of Stanley.

Stanley, Falkland Islands

Christ Church Cathedral

Christ Church Cathedral Interior

Gorse in Bloom

' A little bit of Britain' sprang to mind as we explored the town, With its stone built Christ Church Cathedral, many distinctly English pubs, red telephone boxes and even a double decker bus. With it's brightly painted houses, including the distinctive 'Jubilee Terrace' and beautifully tended gardens boasting resplendent blooms of Lupins and Gorse, you could forget for a moment you are in the South Atlantic.
One of the most imposing landmarks is on the waterfront of Stanley, facing the harbour adjacent to Thatcher Drive is Liberation Monument, built in 1982 'In Memory of those who liberated us'.

A typical well-tended garden

Once the fresh supplies were loaded, we were then able to explore the more remote areas of the Falkland such as Weddell Island and Pebble Island enjoying the amazing wildlife, such as King Penguins, Rock Hopper Penguins, Elephant Seals and an abundance of Giant Petrels and Albatross.

The rockhopper penguin

The majestic Albatross resting before flight

So far, we have been fortunate to have landed ashore at all of the scheduled destinations, but would our luck hold out?
Without doubt, the highlight of our voyage was ahead of us, (as was Drake Passage!).
Despite weather information being available via various international stations within the Antarctic Region, the actuality is that the weather can change, sometimes on a hourly basis.

This fact, along with the added precautions necessary to avoid floating pack-ice, means the Captain must remain vigilant at all times. The Navigating Officers and Able Seamen must keep a 24 hour watch over the ensuing days until we are clear of the often treacherous waters of the South Atlantic.
Landings in Antarctica are strictly controlled and each vessel must carry an 'Expedition Team' authorised by the International Antarctic Association Treaty Organisation, comprising 28 nations, 21 of whom have made no claim to Antarctic Territory, although Russia and the United States have reserved the right to do. The countries that have made claims to 'slices of the pie' include, Britain, Norway, Australia, France, New Zealand, Chili and Argentina.

Perhaps one of the most unusual visits during our exploration of Antarctica was to Port Lockroy, a British Base located on Goudier Island.
Following a conservation survey in 1994, Port Lockroy was recognised for its historical importance and designated as Historic Site and Monument under the Antarctic Treaty. The renovation work was done by a team from the British Antarctic Survey.
The trust also runs the post-office at Port Lockroy on behalf of the Government of the British Antarctic Territory, which donates a proportion of the Post Office revenue to the Trust. Around 70,000 cards are posted each year to over 100 countries.
Mail usually takes from 2 – 6 weeks and there is no express service!
The gentoo penguin population on Goudier Island has been monitored since the base was re-opened in 1996, giving vital information on the environmental factors which may influence their population dynamics.
The four brave representatives of the UK Antarctic Heritage Trust, were pleased to come on board during our brief visit and enjoy and hearty meal and more importantly a steaming hot shower.

No-one quite knew what we had in store, but I hope the pictures you have seen, though unable to capture the extent of this awesome wilderness, have given you a flavour at least – and maybe enough of a taste to encourage you to go.

AND FINALLY