Ukraine....Released from 'Mother's' Apron Strings.....

The Cunard Princess, like the Countess was one of the best ships to work, for many reasons. The itineraries were interesting and varied and the Captain, officers and crew, exceptional. The ports we covered were often off the beaten track, mainly around the Mediterannean during the summer and more conventional ports around the Canary  Islands in the winter. The Black Sea cruises, usually beginning in Venice, would include Istanbul and the Bosporus. The highlight of these cruises was undoubtedly the ports of the Ukraine.

In 1922 following the Russian Civil War, Ukraine emerged as one of he founding republics of the Soviet Union. It became independent in 1991 which started a period of transition to a market economy, in which Ukraine was stricken with an eight-year recession......
By 2011 it had become the worlds 3rd biggest grain exporter.

In the early 90’s following Perestroika, it took some time for the idea that things had changed, and in theory, had become more open. It wasn't getting to the ‘shop-floor’. Each visit we made to the Ukraine and in particular to Yalta and Odessa, saw different rules and regulations in place and in some cases that nothing had changed.

Initially, as with the old regime, passengers were not allowed ashore unless they took organised excursions,  then on subsequent visits, they were allowed to buy a visa upon arrival, but valid for that particular day and that port only.

The cost of a ‘Visa upon Arrival’ initially was $50 but of course, 99% of passengers opted for the organised excursions therefore there were few if any ‘takers’. Subsequent visits saw the ‘Visa’ price reduce to $25 then to $5. Now Visa requirements are clear and 'set'.

Odessa and Yalta are equally beautiful cities and quite different. Odessa a Sea Port and Yalta a resort and  Spa Town. Yalta was particularly badly hurt by their new found independence, as this Resort Town, nestled at the foot of the Crimean Mountains had been a thriving Spa Town for ‘Party Members’. Now, with the end of the Union and in the midst of a deep recession,  its grand hotels were empty, becoming tired and dilapidated. 

There were few cars on the streets and little  interest in the shops,  however, both Yalta and Odessa, and particularly Yalta, had become a Mecca for artisans and artists who displayed their works along the waterfront. Others, more ‘opportunistic’ were selling former Soviet uniforms and watches.

It was obviously a difficult time for this new country and inflation reflected the same. A tour guide I had the good fortune to meet, a lady, in her mid 40’s who had been a Tour Guide and School Teacher all of her working life, since leaving University gave me her story. She was single and had regularly put savings in her Bank Account. Following Perestroika and the inevitable ‘inflation’ she found that her ‘life savings’ were now only enough to buy a pair of shoes!

I was stunned by her philosophical and positive approach, but she considered herself to be one of the lucky ones, as she was still able to work.

An example of the desperate situation was explained to me when we arranged with our Yalta Agent to have a full day tour, to include a half day visiting the Swallow’s Nest, the Alupka and Levadia Palaces (where the Yalta Treaty was signed) followed by lunch and a show at the Yalta International Hotel. To afford the show through the official route would have made the price of the tickets to the passengers prohibitive, as any ‘commercial’ dealings, through the Agent were at an exchange rate of  $1 = 1 Rouble. 

The tourist rate, however was $1 = 30 Roubles. 

So as to make the show affordable, each visit to Yalta, I would go to the bank as a tourist and exchange the required amount .

The show, which followed an extravagant lunch , was spectacular, with a cast of around 90 including a 20 piece orchestra.

A spectacular show!

With equally spectacular dancing.

Egor, our Agent,  a tall and rather stern man at first glance, was delighted with the outcome and the reaction to the days events and would spend most of  the lunch rising to his feet and toasting (with Vodka shots) to his ‘special friends’ . If you didn’t drink the shot ‘ in one’ he would return to his well practiced ‘stern look’ and exclaim……..’You don’t lak de toast?’ ….at which point we would drain the shot glass……
We staggered out around 4pm.

The Livadia Palace where the Yalta Conference was held, following WW II

Prime attendees, Churchill, Roosevelt, Stalin

The most famous landmark of the Crimea, Swallow's Nest, now an exclusive restaurant and where I had the pleasure of having lunch with a dear friend Hannelore (at the Agent's expense of course).

A similar arrangement was made for our visit to Odessa. With a ‘tourist’ rate of exchange, we were able to hire the Odessa Opera House, with a full Ballet Company and Orchestra, including the backstage and front of house staff, for the grand sum of $5,000.

A magnificent interior.

Thankfully, I wasn't there when, during one of our visits, the conductor died, mid ballet!

The Odessa Opera House is a ‘Vienna Style’ auditorium, with boxes all around the outer walls, which we would reserve for our VIP passengers and of course for ourselves.  For the VVIPs and most definitely for ourselves we would purchase a bottle of Shampanskoye (Russian Champagne)  for $1 from the Matruska  at the cloakroom counter.

The quality of Odessa champagne (Shampanskoye) was such they beat the French at their own game.
They won the coveted 'Grand Prix de Champagne' at a World Fair in Paris.

Odessa Wine Factory.

Communication into Ukraine at that time was unreliable and uncertain. We would send numerous messages with tour participation numbers but seldom received replies.

The saving grace was Egor the Agent who was totally reliable, organised and professional.

As I mentioned earlier, the rules changed from visit to visit so it came as no surprise when we received a message from our Head Office that the half day tours in Yalta wouldn’t be available for our future visits. Only the full day excursion would be operating. In reality and knowing the geography of the area, this was just a ploy to increase revenue, knowing that probably 90% of our passengers would take the full day excursion. The half day excursion took in the Alupka and Lavada Palaces, along with the Swallow’s Nest which were situated to the north of Yalta, then the coaches would have to practically drive past the ship to drive slightly to the south of the town to the Yalta International Hotel for lunch and show.

From a selling point of view, it was no hardship as we knew that both the lunch and the show were first class and thus cause no complaints but rather, achieve a high satisfaction level from our passengers.

During the course of the cruise as we were heading to the Black Sea, a gentleman passenger who I knew to be part of a group of around 30 people, asked me if there were vegetarian options for lunch.
(I’m not sure what my face was saying, but my mind was picturing the main course, which I had sampled many times and which I can only describe as resembling a ‘cow pie’! However, I put the ‘cow pie’ out of my head and said……’yes of course’ …..to which he asked if I could arrange for most of his group.

With no half day excursions available, I knew there would be upwards of around 600 passengers taking the full day tour and decided to send a message to Egor the Agent to ask if he would arrange for 45 vegetarian meals.

Upon arrival in Yalta, I left the ship ahead of the passengers to check if Egor had received the up to date information I had sent. He was standing erect, with his ‘organised , stern look’ with clipboard in hand.
‘Good morning Egor’
‘Good mornink’
‘Did you receive the information I sent to you?’
‘Yes’ and allowed me to share his clipboard…..’Boos von to fifteen, for the English speakink passengers, Boos 16 for the German speakink passengers, Boos seventeen for the Spanish speakink passengers and Boos eighteen for the wegetarians!’
At this point, I couldn’t restrain myself  but Egor didn’t see the funny side.
I said ‘Egor, we can’t gather together the vegetarians, as I have no idea who they are.
Egor looked at me with disdain and said, 'they will be better all together as I have arranged a wegetarian guide!’

As I glanced along the regimented line of buses, there was Bus No.18 ’Cunard Vegetarians’ and a pale waif standing by the coach door who I guess was the vegetarian guide.

(I had visions of the passengers heading for the buses and having to interviewing each one……Mr. Brown, are you vegetarian?…..’Yes but my wife isn’t’ …well sorry you won’t be able to travel with your wife today!!!!!

And the Tour Guide……‘Good mornink ladies and gentlemen. My name is Svetlana and I’m vegetarian!
As we go along the road, please ignore the cows on the left and the sheep on the right and concentrate on the vegetables in front!!!!’

I finally persuaded Egor to take down the ’Vegetarian’ sign and everyone went on their merry way, with their companions. The Dutch Manager of the hotel had everything in hand and the vegetarians along with the carnivores had a brilliant day.

During lunch, Egor made the usual numerous vodka toasts to ‘special friends’ and after the show, we staggered back to the ship.

I blame Egor and the vodka shots for the fact that we always left the hotel in a weak state of mind and unable, under the circumstances to say ‘NO’ to the street sellers, hence ending up with a wardrobe full of  Russian Army uniforms.

The beachbum